After experimenting with
Olympus 4-megapixel digital camera and selling it on eBay, it was
relieving to have been able to use a good film camera (30-year old Canon
Canonet G-III QL17 with 40mm f1.7 lens). Last weekend in Monterey, I took tons
of pictures with it and they all turned out either excellent or at least
interesting, due to the camera's great lens and aperture that can be opened up
to f1.7. With such maximum aperture, depth of field can be made very small for
portraits and other sorts of creativity. Try it with your average digital
camera...
However, the convenience of the digital world cannot be underestimated. After
printing awesome pictures produced by Canonet, scanning them for storage and
emailing purposes is a pain. Also, the trusty Canonet still has film in it with
6 shots taken and the remaining 19-20 waiting to be used. As such, I have to
wait for the remaining part of the film to be used to be able to see the frames
that are taken already. Annoying.
I am currently trying to find a reasonable compromise between the digital
convenience and acceptable image quality and features. As far as features go,
the
Canon Powershot S1 IS with its image stabilization sounded like
a good candidate. According to Canon, the feature is supposed to help you take
pictures with two-three stops faster shutter speed than comparable cameras
without it.
Why IS?
Image stabilization is helpful because of the camera shake. When the camera is
hand-held, the shake makes pictures blurry. This effect is most noticeable at
telephoto (high magnification levels) or/and slow shutter speeds (caused by low
light, by decision to use smaller aperture for deeper field of view or for
other creative reasons).
Lens
The camera has a 10x lens (38-380 mm 35-mm equivalent) with f2.8-f3.1 aperture.
The maximum aperture or f2.8 at wide angle is very good for a digital camera of
this price. The 38mm wide angle setting is not wide enough for me, however.
When I travel, I like to take pictures of buildings with a 28mm lens so that I
can get wide view while staying relatively close.
Otherwise, the 38mm staring point is good and comparable to other digital
cameras (aside from Olympus's C5060 and C8080 and some others) and majority of
35mm point-and-shoot models. The 380mm telephoto is more than many cameras
provide (10x zoom).
Camera Pictures
You can see how the camera looks (front and rear as well as with the LCD screen
flipped out) by clicking on the link below the picture:
Click here to see more pictures of Canon PowerShot S1 IS Camera
Handling
The camera is relatively compact for its monstrous zoom and large aperture. The
lens retracts when the camera is not in use. The LCD is 1.5-inch (somewhat
smaller than average). It is bright and flips/swivels. The camera also has an
electronic viewfinder (EVF), which has diopter adjustment for people who wear
glasses. The switching between the swiveling display and the EVF is conducted
by a button called "Display".
The EVF has the same information, but is smaller and consumes less power. The
LCD can be closed flush with the rear panel of the camera either facing you or
facing the back of the camera (to prevent scratching/fingerprints/dirt).
The back and top of the camera house a multitude of buttons. After partially
reading the manual, they are easy to use. The top also has a dial that switches
the camera modes, which I find more intuitive than having to select options in
menus. You can leave the dial in Auto mode for almost "Point-and-shoot"
ease of use. Alternatively, you can select other modes with progressively more
degree of manual control over exposure and other parameters.
The camera body looks SLR-like and has a convenient hand grip (if you are
right-handed).
Control
In addition to auto and preprogrammed auto exposure settings, you can select
shutter priority (you set shutter speed and the camera decides on aperture),
aperture priority (vice versa) or full manual mode, where you set both
manually. The pre-programmed Portrait, Landscape and Night Scene modes are
helpful if you don't know much about depth of field or are simply in a hurry.
You can adjust white balance, sharpness, contrast and color saturation. As far
as exposure metering, you can select between Spot (I used it in strong
backlight), Center-Weighted Average and Evaluative.
Shutter Speeds
The shutter speeds can be between 15 and 1/2,000. Speeds slower than 1.3 sec
are available in shutter priority or manual mode and work with noise reduction.
Resolution
Although many people believe that the resolution of the camera determines the
picture quality, it is, in fact, far from truth. The picture quality mostly
depends on the camera's optics. It also depends on the electronics/processor
and the focus system. Also, digital cameras produce noise, especially at higher
ISO settings.
This said, resolution does matter, especially if you plan on enlarging the
pictures to sizes higher than "normal" 6x4-inch prints or you want to crop a
section of the picture or/and enlarge it.
The 3.2 megapixel resolution this camera provides (2048x1536 pixels) lets you
print 6x4 photos at better than 300 dpi (341 dpi horizontal and 384 dpi
vertical resolution). In other words, the 3.2 megapixel resolution is more than
sufficient for 6x4 prints.
Larger prints can be produced as well. I tried printing a 10x8 on a photo
printer and detail level, contrast and resolution were very good. If you do the
math, this amounts to about 200 dpi - not bad at all.
Still, it would have been nice to see a 4 or 5-Megapixel CCD in this camera. As
with many other digital cameras, the noise is well controlled at up to ISO 200.
At ISO 200-400, the noise may be slightly noticeable in darker areas. I suggest
you use ISO 50, 100 or (if you have to) 200. With its image stabilization, the
camera can sustain long shutter openings with less image degradation, so
keeping the ISO 50 or 100 and still being able to shoot hand-held in darker
conditions is much easier than cameras with no image stabilization would allow.
Plus, the aperture can be set at maximum (f2.8 at wide angle, f3.1 at
telephoto), further increasing the camera's overall light sensitivity.
Focusing
The Canon's auto focus uses TTL contrast detection and works well. You can move
its single focusing point anywhere you want. The focusing is quick (in well-lit
conditions) and accurate.
You can focus manually, if you want. In manual mode, the focusing scale appears
on the screen and the picture is enlarged 2x to help you focus better. Call me
old-fashioned, but I much rather prefer a good old ring around the lens and a
rangefinder system.
I have to mention that the camera startup time is about 4 seconds, which is not
bad and considering 1-second full zooming time and fast focus and shutter lag
makes it a good performer as far as on-to-shoot times go.
Picture Quality
The camera produces excellent picture quality due to its good optics, image
stabilization and good processor. Image stabilization definitely helps at
slower shutter speeds. I normally try to shoot (when hand-held) at shutter
speeds no slower than 1/focal length. But with image stabilization, I could
shoot at wide angle (38 mm) at 1/30 hand-held with no blur.
In good lighting, I could shoot at full telephoto (380 mm) at 1/250 handheld
with no blur. Make sure you hold the camera correctly for best results.
Power
The camera is powered by 4 AA batteries (alkaline or rechargeable). I highly
recommend rechargeable NiMH. I used 1600 mAh Panasonic NoMH rechargeables and
they held up well. After about 80-120 shots (with LCD use and about 50% flash
use), they were still full of power.
Zooming
The camera can zoom in and out very quickly, while being very quiet. It can
zoom from wide angle to telephoto in 1 second.
Storage
The camera stores its pictures (and short videos) in JPEG format on a Compact
Flash Type I and Type II as well as on IBM Microdrives. The 32 Mb card is
included, which is a good capacity for an included memory card. Many cameras
(even the ones with higher resolution) came with only 16 Mb card or none at
all.
Formats
The images are stored in JPEG format. JPEG means compression with loss and it
is a shame that there is no RAW lossless mode, especially considering that the
maximum resolution is only 3.2 Megapixel and that some cameras with much higher
resolution can store RAW images.
In any case, shooting in super-fine mode (full resolution, minimum compression)
produces great results.
The camera can take pictures at 2048x1536 resolution as well as at 1600x1200,
1024x768 and 640x480 (VGA). The smaller resolution is useful for email or web
posting. Of course, you can resize a large image on your PC to smaller size.
I did not bother with short movie clips the camera can produce, as I have a
dedicated camcorder for video and if I need video capability, I will use the
camcorder. It is comforting to know, however, that if the need arises, the S1
can record short videos.
Connectivity
The camera has a USB 1.1 connection and an A/V out (can be switched between PAL
and NTSC) for connection to a TV. The USB 1.1 is adequate for the resolution
the camera provides since the files are small enough in size to transfer
relatively fast.
Flash
The built-in pop-up flash can be turned off, on or work in auto mode (when
camera thinks it needs it). It has red-eye reduction mode. You can also use it
in first curtain mode and second curtain mode (flash at the beginning of the
shutter opening or at the end, respectively). There is also a Slow Sync mode
(if you want to take a photograph of a person with a very dark background, for
instance). You can adjust the flash power and compensation.
Exposure Compensation
The camera has exposure compensation in 1/3 EV increments. This way, you can
compensate for dark subjects by decreasing exposure and vice versa. Or, in case
of the bright background, you may want to increase exposure by using the
exposure compensation.
The camera also has Auto Exposure Bracketing, which takes three frames at
slightly different exposure settings in rapid succession after the shutter
button is pressed. One frame is slightly overexposed and one is slightly
underexposed. This way, you can choose the best one of the three and delete the
rest.
Competition
This camera is very similar to the
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ3. It has similar resolution, OIS, but
10x optical zoom vs. Panasonic's 12x and f/3.1 maximum aperture at telephoto
vs. Panasonic's f/2.8. I do like
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ3 better than the Canon S1 IS.
Bottom Line
The Canon S1 IS is quite impressive in terms of picture quality, design,
features and its image compensation. If you don't need super-wide angle lens, I
highly recommend it.
My Reviews of Other Digital Cameras
Canon:
Canon PowerShot S500 5-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Canon PowerShot S410 / Digital IXUS
430 Digital Camera Review
Panasonic:
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ20
5-Megapixel Digital Camera with 12x Optical Stabilized Zoom Review
Recommended
Yes
Product Rating
(superior)
This review is also available at Epinions.com: Canon PowerShot S1 IS Review on Epinions.com
My Reviews of Other Digital Cameras
Canon:
Canon Powershot S2 IS Digital
Camera Review
Canon Powershot S1 IS Digital
Camera Review
Canon PowerShot A520 4-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Canon PowerShot A510 3.2-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Canon PowerShot S500 5-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Canon PowerShot S410 / Digital IXUS
430 Digital Camera Review
Canon PowerShot SD400 5-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Kodak:
Kodak EasyShare Z740 5-Megapixel
Digital Camera Review
Olympus:
Olympus Camedia D-595 Zoom
5-Megapixel Digital Camera Review
Panasonic:
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ5
5-Megapixel Digital Camera with 12x Optical Stabilized Zoom Review
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ20
5-Megapixel Digital Camera with 12x Optical Stabilized Zoom Review
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ4
4-Megapixel Digital Camera with 12x Optical Stabilized Zoom Review
Sony:
Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-T1
Digital Camera Review
Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-T33 Digital
Camera Review
Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-T7 Digital
Camera Review